![]() ![]() Up to 44 miles of range per hour of charge.We're pretty sure Tesla will also get the unit utility-certified to participate in demand response programs, which can save the user a lot of money on their electric bill. However, even though users may not get to take advantage of the new wall connector's "smart" features today, they will, as Tesla will most certainly add things like the ability to communicate with your solar array and/or Powerwall so you can charge your car exclusively from your solar production if desired. For now, having it wifi connected allows you to provision the unit with your smartphone, (there's no need to set the physical dip switch inside the unit to set the maximum circuit amperage like you had to on the previous models), it can also get firmware updates OTA from Tesla, and as mentioned above, configure daisy-chain load sharing with multiple units. The new wall connector is also a wifi-enabled "smart charger" although Tesla hasn't announced just what smart-charging features the unit will provide. ![]() Getting ready to install the Tesla Wall Connector It's Ok to have a shorter cable on a portable, occasional-use EVSE, but not on a permanently-installed wall-connector. We've been reviewing EVSE for a decade, have had hundreds (perhaps thousands) of comments on our reviews, received direct messages on what users like and dislike about their units, and have used virtually every product that has come to market, and we've come to conclude that 20 feet is the very minimum that a wall connector's length should be. This, in our opinion, is a significant problem and a huge mistake on Tesla's part. On the downside, Tesla reduced the length of the cable from 24 feet to 18 feet. Tesla's EVSE cables are by far the thinnest of any major EV charging-equipment supplier and we wonder why the other brands haven't switched to thinner cables like Tesla uses. In fact, while it's slightly thicker than the cable on Tesla's 32-amp mobile connector, it's easily the thinnest cable on any high-powered (40-amp or higher) level 2 EVSE that we've ever tested. ![]() Gets a bit complicated on cost for that since you may need extra wire to move old runs from the main panel to the subpanel, code may require upgrades to arc-fault breakers.The cable is noticeably thinner and it's very easy to manage. If you had to go with the subpanel option, the panel itself is like $20-$50 but you will also need to buy a breaker for the line between the main panel and the subpanel. Tandem breakers would add their own costs. If your breaker panel does not have enough space you may either need to add a subpanel or replace some existing breakers with 'tandem' breakers (basically they combine 2 breakers into the space of 1, may or may not be allowed based on code for retrofits in your area). If you're hiring an electrician they take care of all of this, but probably have some amount of markup on materials and labor price is high due to it being a skilled trade. You also need the box that goes in the wall, which is like $3. You need the outlet, assuming nema 14-50 that's $10. Cost for just 1 40A breaker is $15-30 depending on brand and other details. You need a circuit breaker rated for the right amperage and compatible with your breaker panel. If you're doing a longer run you may need larger wire, or if you want a higher amperage you definitely will. So I used 8-3 wire which is $5.50 a foot from home depot. I am not running a full 50 Amp circuit to the outlet, only 40, since the max you can pull w/ mobile charger for 3/Y is 32 Amps. Don't mention it's for a car until maybe after the quote, or not at all. I would highly recommend that if you do hire an electrician, just tell them you want a 220V 40 Amp (or whatever amps you need) run to a specific location to get your quote. One thing I will mention is several people on these forums have mentioned getting a much higher price (2-3x) for doing a tesla charger instead of just an outlet due to the perceived value of the car causing the electrician to raise their prices. If you are not familiar with electrical stuff already, I would just hire an electrician. The next will be the wire from the panel to the outlet. Most of these costs will be very similar depending on whether you do an outlet, or a wall charger of any kind. In both houses I've lived in my breaker was on the same wall as where I was parking my car, so it was really easy to just wire it myself, so I actually don't know the cost other than material cost for me. Usually you don't move it, you add a new one.Ĭost depends a lot on where you live, and how far your outlet is from your breaker panel. ![]()
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